A Perfect Salad: Honey Gorgonzola Hearts

Posted on April 24, 2013 by Sarah Nasello

While cataloguing our featured recipes from the past several weeks, Tony and I discovered that we had nearly all the components for a lovely Italian menu: prosciutto and cantaloupe melon appetizer, pasta primavera main course, and tiramisu, the ultimate Italian dessert. The only item missing from this menu was a great spring salad.

Without missing a beat, Tony turned to me and said, “Honey Gorgonzola Hearts of Romaine.” I was delighted by his response, as this is one of my all-time favorite salads from our repertoire at Sarello’s. This salad has so much going for it: crispy hearts of romaine lettuce and asparagus spears, crunchy toasted walnuts, and a velvety-smooth honey gorgonzola vinaigrette create a wonderful balance of flavor and texture.

Hearts of romaine lettuce, the leaves located in the center of the head, are the featured green in this salad. The hearts are lighter and crispier than the outer leaves, with a delicate, sweet, and refreshing flavor. They’re also smaller, which means we can leave them whole for this recipe, thus creating an attractive bed of lettuce on which to host the other ingredients.

Hearts of romaine are available in the packaged salad section, already separated from the head. Our recipe calls for one package of romaine hearts, which comes pre-washed, but we give it another good wash at home for good measure.

If you prefer to buy a whole head of romaine, look for lettuce that is free of dark spots and cracked ribs, and avoid any heads that are wilted or browning. Be sure to wash the leaves well, as romaine lettuce can be very sandy.

The other main ingredient is an Italian blue cheese called gorgonzola, which is showcased both on its own and in the vinaigrette dressing. Gorgonzola originated in northern Italy over a thousand years ago, reportedly in the town of Gorgonzola, Milan. Today, most Italian gorgonzola is produced in the regions of Piedmont and Lombardy, but our American cheese producers also make excellent gorgonzola.

The cheese is creamy and pungent, and pairs beautifully with honey, nuts, and asparagus, all of which you will find in this salad. We use walnuts, and toast them beforehand for extra flavor. To toast, lay the walnuts on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper or aluminum foil. Bake in a 350 degree oven for five to ten minutes, until they just start to brown and smell toasted. Watch them closely, as nuts can go from toasted to burnt in a matter of seconds.

This salad has a beautiful presentation which can be adapted according to your needs. For more formal occasions, serve it plated individually for each guest. For family-style settings, take a more rustic approach and serve it on a large platter – either way it’s easy to make, and the result is elegant and delicious.

NOTE: Recently we received a question from a reader about the use of raw eggs in our tiramisu recipe. This week’s recipe also calls for raw egg yolks in the dressing. While we have never had an issue, please use caution when preparing and consuming dishes with raw and lightly-cooked eggs due to the slight risk of Salmonella or other food-borne illness.

To reduce this risk, we recommend you use only fresh, properly-refrigerated, clean, grade A or AA eggs with intact shells, and avoid contact between the yolks or whites and the shell. You may also choose to use pasteurized egg yolks, in whole or liquid form.

The Man at Table 34

Posted on March 13, 2013 by Sarah Nasello

Two years ago this month we said goodbye to a dear friend who we came to know and love because of his extraordinarily loyal patronage at our restaurant, Sarello’s, and for his tireless commitment to the arts in our community. We think of him often, and Sarello’s has never been quite the same since he left our world. Upon his passing, I wrote a piece for a blog I was keeping at the time, and I have posted it again here on Home with The Lost Italian.

James H. O’Rourke: July 20, 1933 – March 3, 2011
Photo courtesy of Media Mike – Thank you, Mike Hazard!

The Man at Table 34
James O’Rourke was no ordinary man in our lives. He was someone…exquisite. An angel, of sorts. Over the past week I have searched for the words to express how much James O’Rourke meant to Tony and me, and our entire team at Sarello’s. I thought that if I allowed the grief to settle, my intention would be clear and the right words would come.

But grief is funny that way, and I’ve discovered that Jim is a very difficult man to define, mainly because everyone has a different dictionary when it comes to James O’Rourke. Some definitions I’ve seen in the past week include: curator, mentor, lover of art, community leader, brother, legend, teacher, customer, hero, eccentric, uncle, trailblazer, artist, leader, icon, friend, and the list goes on. Jim was so much to so many, but for us, he will always be The Man at Table 34.

Mr. O’Rourke was our original customer – literally, the original. When we opened for business on Friday, December 15, 2000, Mr. O’Rourke and John Rowell were the first two customers to arrive. They walked in, introduced themselves and, after welcoming us to the neighborhood, asked Tony if his martinis were any good. Undaunted, Tony assured them that they were in excellent hands, and invited them to choose their table. Mr. O’Rourke surveyed the dining room and chose a table at the front, in the corner by the window.

They were seated, and Tony quickly retreated to the service station to mix up the meanest martini possible. After sampling the cocktail, Mr. O’Rourke told us that he would like to make a standing reservation for lunch, every Monday through Friday, but only if he could sit at Table 34. What a way to start the night!

For the next year, Mr. O’Rourke came in for lunch every weekday, without fail, and never ventured to another table. In fact, he became such a fixture at Sarello’s that other guests would stop us to ask who the man in the corner was, thinking that he might, perhaps, be a relative.

After our first year in business, we made the decision to stop serving lunch. As a married couple in business together, the pace was unrelenting, and we found ourselves in need of a little more down time. We had a very loyal lunch clientele and I dreaded making this change. I was especially anxious about how to break the news to Mr. O’Rourke. I should have known better. Many people were disappointed, some were upset, and some were both (my parents). But Mr. O’Rourke was gracious and understanding. “I’ll just have to come in for dinner more often,” he said. And he did, regularly hosting events after museum exhibit openings, or just to satisfy a craving for salmon.

Another year passed, and I grew weary of chance meetings with former lunch customers, who would always inquire “WHEN are you going to open for lunch again?” Some were relentless (again, my parents), and I’m sure that the guilt would have kept me up at night were I not so grateful to have a little more free time with my husband. But Mr. O’Rourke never once asked us about opening for lunch, and for this he will always have a special place in my heart.

However, by popular demand we opened again for lunch in the fall of 2002, but only on Fridays. Once again, Mr. O’Rourke was the first customer through our door. When he came in, I greeted him with enthusiasm: “Good morning, Mr. O’Rourke, it’s so good to see you!” I will never forget his response: he came right up and gave me a big hug, then kissed my cheek and said, “Please, call me Jim.” I felt like I had just been granted admission to a very private club.

Jim came to lunch every Friday for the next eight-plus years, missing maybe only two Fridays in all that time, and he always sat at Table 34. He was our original customer, in so many ways. For years our martini list has featured “The Rourke” – the classic martini, named for a true Moorhead classic.

When we were dreaming of opening Sarello’s, I had all kinds of ideas of the clientele we would attract. But never in my wildest imagination could I have created a customer as wonderful as Jim. His loyalty, humor and friendship were gifts in our lives, and he will be dearly missed.

So my final thoughts are this: When I no longer own a restaurant, I’m going to find a new favorite place to dine. And when I find it, I’m going to seek out the best table in the house and claim it. I’ll visit my table often, and from time to time I’ll order a fillet of salmon with a really dry martini. Then I’ll raise my glass and say “Thank you, Jim.”

AUTHOR’S NOTE, March 13, 2013: Jim was the founder and curator of the Rourke Art Gallery and Museum in Moorhead, two gems in our local arts community. A new exhibit opens this weekend, featuring the works of Jim and his brother, Orland, called Two Brothers: Two Ways of Seeing. For more about his legacy, and current happenings at the gallery and museum, please check out their website, www.therourke.org, and then visit them in person – your world will be better for it.

Sarello’s Famous Red Curry Scallops

Posted on February 7, 2013 by Sarah Nasello

The following post is the full copy of our column from the February 6, 2013 edition of The Forum. Our column appears in the SheSays section every Wednesday, and you can also access past columns right here on the blog.

Sarello’s Red Curry Scallops Recipe

It’s February, which means the Season of Love is about to begin. Every year around this time Tony and I sit down to plan our Valentine’s Day menu for Sarello’s, and we love to include as many aphrodisiac foods as possible, just to help out those couples seeking some added romance with their loved ones.

Our menu changes often throughout the year, and on special occasions we create a new menu just for that evening. We love the opportunity this presents to be creative by featuring dishes that are not normally in our repertoire. However, we have learned over the past twelve years that there are just some dishes too beloved to ever leave off our menu (lest a mutiny ensue). This week’s Thai-inspired Red Curry Scallops are right at the top of that list.

Before continuing, I must disclose that I am highly allergic to all shellfish, so I have never actually tried this specialty. But that doesn’t mean I don’t still enjoy it. In addition to being one of the prettiest food presentations I have ever seen, I love the briny, fragrant aroma of the scallops and the curry blending together. In fact, it looks and smells so good that sometimes I think I wouldn’t mind a visit to the emergency room just to give it a try. But what does it taste like?

To answer this question, we sent an email to all of our customers, asking them to provide a brief description of what they love about our Red Curry Scallops. The response was great, and we are grateful to everyone who shared their thoughts with us. While many of the comments included a reference to the texture and “doneness” of the scallops, it became clear that the red curry sauce is the star of this dish. Here are just a few of the comments we received:

“The sauce is richly flavored, with a nice texture. It is a bold dish with the complex flavors of seafood, onions and curry, all in a velvety sauce. A chilled glass of Riesling is perfect with it.” - Sam Wai, Moorhead.

“I’ve learned there’s a difference between spicy and complex. While this dish certainly has kick and a little heat, the complexity of flavors blending together make it like no other.” - Bernie Erickson, Fargo.

“That special delicate heat and spice that compliment the firm, tender scallop. The combination is quintessential. Marvelous flavors like love are difficult to define.” – Ted and Linda Kleiman, Fargo.

“We find them both toothsome and piquant.” – Eddie Schmoll, Fargo.

“The scallops are delicious, not gritty, pleasantly spiced and perfectly cooked. But the sauce, OMG it is perfect. It is full flavored with a subtle blend of hot, salty and sweet.” – Carol Menzies, Fargo.

One of the best surprises among the comments came from Tom and Becky Ihringer of Fargo, who had previously requested a copy of this recipe after enjoying the dish at Sarello’s. “I cooked the Red Curry Scallops for the first time yesterday…The colors and texture of the carrots and mushrooms with the basil were the real surprise.”

Tony loves the versatility of this dish, which can be altered to accommodate many different tastes. Shrimp or chicken are nice substitutes for scallops, but you can also create a delicious vegetarian dish by adding more vegetables to the sauce and serving it over rice. You can even make a gluten-free version by omitting the roux from the sauce and letting it reduce longer to thicken. The spicy heat, which is a medium-heat in this recipe, can be controlled by adjusting the amount of curry paste. And all of the ingredients can be easily found in our local grocery stores.

So play with this recipe and alter it as you desire. And be sure to have some good bread on hand, because Tony says that the best part of this dish is mopping up the sauce at the end.

Sarello’s Sicily Chicken & the Scaloppine Method

Posted on January 24, 2013 by Sarah Nasello

The following post is the full copy of our column from the January 23, 2013 edition of The Forum. Our column appears in the SheSays section every Wednesday, and you can also access past columns right here on the blog.

Sarello’s Sicily Chicken Recipe

This week we’re going to expand upon a culinary technique which we’ve mentioned in two of our previous columns: preparing meat in the scaloppine style. Scaloppine is an Italian term for a dish featuring cutlets of meat, or “scallops”, which are pounded thin, then often dredged in flour and sautéed. In other words, it’s a fancy term for an easy technique that, when mastered, will vastly improve your culinary repertoire.

Tony and I love the scaloppine technique in large part for its ease and versatility. As a chef, Tony appreciates the quick cooking time that this method allows, and the assurance that the final product will be tender. As a home cook, I like the many choices available when it comes to preparing scaloppine.

Veal Marsala and Chicken Piccata are two examples of popular scaloppine dishes, but many recipes also feature pork, beef, turkey and even fish. We have previously introduced two very different recipes which use the scaloppine method: Stuffed Turkey Breast and Jamaican Jerk Pork Tenderloin. To help you truly master this technique, we’re adding Sarello’s Sicily Chicken to the list.

This dish is a favorite among our guests at Sarello’s, and is also a staple in our home since its simple preparation and overall deliciousness make it very kid-friendly. In fact, our eight-year-old son Giovanni does nearly all the prep work himself now, allowing us to step in only when it’s time to fry the chicken.

Our recipe for Sicily Chicken highlights the traditional Sicilian flavors of rosemary, lemon and parmesan cheese, but what makes this dish different from other “parmigianas” is a Japanese-style breadcrumb called panko, which can be found in our local grocery stores.

“Panko breadcrumbs are crispier and more airy in texture than standard breadcrumbs,” says Tony. “When I cook with panko breadcrumbs, the coating is light and crunchy. There is also very little greasiness, because the panko tends to resist absorbing the oil.”

Before frying, we dredge our scaloppine of chicken in flour, eggwash and panko breadcrumbs. We fry the cutlets in vegetable oil over medium-high heat, turning several times until golden brown on both sides, about five to six minutes total. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain any excess oil before serving. Tony likes to squeeze a fresh lemon over the top while still hot, which naturally enhances the other flavors in the dish.

To create scallopine, you will need a meat tenderizer (also called a meat mallet), a cutting board, a sharp knife and the meat of your choice. Some recipes require flour, some do not. In the beginning you may wish to place the cutlet of meat between two pieces of plastic wrap when pounding it out, until you get the feel of the technique. This will help prevent the meat from tearing.

For this recipe, we use boneless, skinless split chicken breasts which we then slice in half, lengthwise. When using other meats, cut into half-inch cutlets before starting, if necessary. Place the cutlet of meat on a cutting board and use the spiked side of your meat tenderizer to evenly pound the meat into thin pieces, about a ¼-inch to 1/8-inch in thickness. Once this is achieved, you have created the scallops, or scallopine, of meat to use in the recipe of your choice. Bravo! By mastering this simple technique, you can now make a limitless number of quick and easy dishes.

We will be offering a hands-on cooking class to further demonstrate the scaloppine technique on Monday, Feb. 25, 2013 at Sarello’s. For more information, please visit us online at www.thelostitalian.areavoices.com.