Tag Archives: cooking

Gorgeous & Delicious: Prosciutto con Melone

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For the past two weeks, our local grocery store (Southgate Hornbacher’s), has been featuring large displays of cantaloupe melons from Guatemala. Tony mentioned them to me several times before I pointed out that we still had a package of prosciutto ham at home in our refrigerator, left over from our Easter feast.

Prosciutto and melon is a classic food pairing in Italy, and is commonly featured as an appetizer, or antipasto. Traditionally, the melon is sliced into long, crescent-shaped pieces and served with a slice of prosciutto wrapped around it.

When Tony first made this dish for me many years ago, I balked at the use of cantaloupe, and tried to reason with him that the sweeter, and firmer, honeydew melon would be much better.

“But then it wouldn’t be prosciutto con melone,” he said. His response was so simple, and typically Italian, that it left little room for argument. Tony assured me that, when paired with prosciutto, the balance of savory and sweet flavors would bring out the best in the cantaloupe.  And he was right.

Prosciutto, or Parma ham, is a cured Italian meat made from the hind leg or thigh of the pig. The meat is cured in salt for two months, and then air-dried for at least eight more months before serving.  Tony recalls that, in Etobicoke, the Toronto neighborhood where he was raised, there were several Italian families who made their own prosciutto, curing it on hooks attached to the ceiling of their basements.

Prosciutto is Tony’s favorite deli meat, and was a staple in his family’s home. One of his fondest memories of this Italian specialty comes from accompanying his mother on trips to their local butcher, the Savoia Meat Market. While they would wait for the butcher to prepare their order, Mr. Savoia would always make Tony a Panini of fresh Italian bread with a generous portion of his prosciutto.

Prosciutto is served in paper-thin slices, and has a silky, almost buttery texture. A delicious blend of salty and sweet, it’s so good you might be tempted to eat it by itself. But, when paired with the cantaloupe, this simple peasant creation assumes an air of casual elegance.

There are a few helpful tips to follow when buying cantaloupe. Look for a melon that is light tan in color with green lines running across it, and avoid any fruit with dents or bruises. Next, feel the melon: it should be firm, but not rock hard. If you’re planning to eat it within a day or two after purchasing, you’ll want a melon that has a little give when you press your thumb into it.

And finally, don’t be afraid to smell the melon. Give it a good sniff – a ripe cantaloupe should smell similar to a freshly cut one. If there is no smell, it’s under-ripe. If your nose picks up a very strong, fruity scent, or an unpleasant aroma, it’s probably overripe.

For this recipe, Tony is departing from the traditional presentation, opting instead to serve the sliced cantaloupe over a layer of prosciutto. He then drizzles the platter with a reduction of balsamic vinegar. This simple ingredient is made by cooking regular balsamic vinegar until it is reduced by half, and achieves a syrupy consistency. This final touch enhances the dish with its tart, tangy sweetness, and adds a dramatic contrast to the lovely pink and melon colors on the platter. Buon appetito!

Tiramisu: An Instant “Pick Me Up”

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Tiramisu. Just saying that word aloud makes me feel better, and it’s no wonder:  when literally translated from Italian to English, tiramisu means “pick me up.”

My first experience with this heavenly dessert was back in 1992, shortly after I joined the crew of the cruise ship, M/V World Discoverer. We had a wonderful pastry chef, a Filipino gentleman named Nick, who made the most delectable desserts. Nick was a true artist when it came to his pastries, and he had a flair for dramatic presentations. Regardless of how much the ship was moving, his creations were flawless, and included sky-high Chocolate Soufflés, perfectly layered Napoleons, and individual, flaming Baked Alaska.

Visually, Nick’s tiramisu paled in comparison. But in terms of flavor, this sweet creation had no rival. In fairness, my high regard may have been influenced by another factor. I’d just met a handsome young Italian named Tony who was quickly sweeping me off my feet, and he loved tiramisu. But, honestly, I’d never tasted anything like it.

Fortunately, I married that cute Italian. And, even better, he knows how to make tiramisu.

Tiramisu is a popular Italian dessert with somewhat ambiguous origins, which vary depending on the part of Italy you visit. The Savoy region of Piedmont claims to have invented it, and points to the use of ladyfingers, or savoiardi, as proof. However, the people of Lombardia will argue that the honor should be theirs, based on the mascarpone cheese, as it is a Lombardian creation. Tuscans and Venetians will happily jump into the debate, but their reasons for doing so aren’t as clear. And the Romans will put forth that any dessert so typically Italian could only be Roman.

Similar to a trifle, Tiramisu is a creamy, layered dessert consisting of ladyfinger cookies and a mixture of whipped mascarpone cheese, sugar, egg yolks and egg whites. Many recipes use heavy cream, but Tony prefers to use egg whites instead, which make the filling lighter and extend its shelf life in the refrigerator. This step also ensures that the entire egg is used, which is great since the recipe calls for ten eggs.

Traditionally, the ladyfingers are soaked in a mixture of espresso and liquor – we use brandy, but you can also use Marsala wine, Amaretto, rum, or just go without. Be careful not to oversoak the ladyfingers, or they will become soggy once layered. A quick dip for about five seconds should suffice, just before layering.

Tiramisu can be shaped to whatever dish you choose. In our recipe, we use an 8×12 inch glass baking dish, but at Sarello’s we prepare our Tiramisu in small bowls, for individual servings. You may begin layering with either the cheese mixture, or the ladyfingers, but the top layer should always be the cheese.

To finish, dust the top with a layer of cocoa powder, and refrigerate for at least twenty-four hours before serving. If planning to freeze, hold off on the cocoa powder and wrap the dish in two layers of plastic wrap, then top it with one layer of aluminum foil. Freeze for up to three months. Thaw for twenty-four hours, and dust with cocoa powder before serving.

The end result is delicate, fluffy, light, and delicious. Some people claim that Tiramisu was given the name “pick me up” due to its high egg and sugar content, or its blend of espresso and liquor. While those ingredients are important, their effects are only temporary. It is the perfect combination of all the ingredients, coming  together to create an unforgettable taste experience, which makes this dessert truly worthy of its name.

Raw Egg Warning: While we have never found this to be an issue, there can be concern in consuming raw and lightly-cooked eggs due to the slight risk of Salmonella or other food-borne illness.

To reduce this risk, we recommend you use only fresh, properly-refrigerated, clean, grade A or AA eggs with intact shells, and avoid contact between the yolks or whites and the shell. You may also choose to use pasteurized eggs, in whole or liquid form. 

Tiramisu RECIPE

Watch Tony MAKE TIRAMISU

Savoring Springtime with Pasta Primavera

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Pasta Primavera is one of our favorite springtime recipes. Primavera means spring in Italian, and this dish is a wonderful example of nature’s influence in the art of food. It’s light and fresh, a perfect blend of pasta, vegetables, colors and aromatics. It’s a dish that caters to the creative cook as you can vary the vegetables, pasta noodles, and even the sauce to reflect your mood and make the dish your own.

It also comes with an interesting back story. Pasta Primavera was created in the late 1970s at the famed New York City French restaurant, Le Cirque, and was promptly hailed by the New York Times as “by far, the most talked-about dish in Manhattan.” This much we know, but dig a little deeper and it becomes difficult to find a definitive story about the origins of this dish.

Some sources attribute its creation to a collaboration of Sirio Maccioni, Le Cirque’s owner, Ed Giobbi, an American artist and cook, and Jean Vergnes, Le Cirque’s then-head chef. Other reports credit Mr. Maccioni’s wife, Egidiana, with the idea. Some foodies muse that the mystery of its origin speaks to a larger story about a culinary culture war between Italy (Mr. Maccioni) vs. France (Chef Vergne).

Oddly, though wildly popular at Le Cirque, this dish was never featured on the restaurant’s menu, a fact which may lend credence to the legend that Chef Vergnes so disliked this dish, he insisted his cooks prepare it in the hallway. Even Mr. Maccioni’s own story has changed over the years. What is not disputed is the fact that this humble dish left its mark on the American culinary world in a big way.

Our recipe differs from the original dish as we lean toward an Italian culinary point-of-view (go Italy!), embracing olive oil over cream, penne noodles over spaghetti, and a different combination of vegetables.

We recommend taking a simple and consistent approach to this dish. While you may vary the type of pasta noodles, it’s important to match the cut of the vegetables to the shape of the pasta. For long noodles like spaghetti, linguini and fettuccine, cut the vegetables in long, thin strips, julienne style. For shorter, fatter noodles, cut the vegetables in smaller pieces to better complement the pasta.

Tony cannot stress enough the importance of seasoning the pasta water with salt, a step often overlooked by home cooks. Add at least one to two tablespoons of kosher salt to the water before it reaches a boiling point. Throw in the pasta and cook until al dente, an Italian term which means “to the tooth,” and is described as “having a firm bite.”

Olive oil is a key component of this dish, so use a good quality, extra-virgin variety. A good rule of thumb when cooking the vegetables is to begin with those that will require more cooking time, such as carrots and onions. Add other vegetables, like mushrooms, peas, and tomatoes later, after deglazing the pan with white wine. Leafy items, like spinach, should be held until the end, as they wilt quickly. And always use fresh parmesan cheese to garnish.

We’re sharing our own version of pasta primavera today, but encourage you to play around with it and get creative at home. Who knows? You just might create a dish great enough to inspire a legend, or two.

Pasta Primavera RECIPE
WATCH Tony make Pasta Primavera

Spring into Asparagus

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All evidence to the contrary, today is the official First Day of Spring. In terms of the weather, this means absolutely nothing; however, in terms of food, it means we are entering the season of asparagus, one of our favorite vegetables.

Tony and I love this symbol of spring for its lush greenery, high nutritional value, and versatility. An easy way to prepare asparagus is to toss it in olive oil, salt and pepper, place it on a baking sheet and roast it in the oven at 350 degrees for about ten minutes. So simple, yet roasting intensifies its unique and pleasing flavor, and lessens its slightly bitter tone. But this is just one approach to this marvelous vegetable.

Last month I was lucky enough to spend ten days with my sister, Paula, and her adorable family of four at their home in Apple Valley, MN as they welcomed the arrival of baby Zoe Clementine.

A few weeks before her due date, Paula mentioned that she was craving Sarello’s Asparagus Bleu Cheese Soup, and asked if I could bring some with me when I came to visit. I assured her this was no problem, fully intending to ask Tony to put this soup on the schedule for that week so that I would arrive in good standing. Of course, after hanging up the phone, I promptly forgot all about Paula’s special request.

By the time I remembered, it was the night before my mother and I were to leave for our visit. Too late for Tony to come to my rescue, I realized that I would have to make the soup once I arrived at Paula’s house. While the recipe is not difficult, I am the baker of this family, not the chef. And, with the exception of Mama Mia’s Brodo, making soup does not fall within my usual domain.

But Tony assured me that my skills were up to the task, and with a new mama to please, I knew I had to give it my best effort. Once I got started, I was surprised by how easy this soup was to make. The only challenge I experienced was in making the blond roux, a mixture of butter and flour used to thicken the soup. I have to confess, with a chef as my husband, I’d never had to make a blond roux before.

My first attempt was a deep, rich, beautiful brown color, probably perfect for a gumbo but definitely not Asparagus Bleu Cheese Soup. I called Tony and he talked me through my next batch, and I realized that I had set the heat too high the first time. This time the roux came out perfectly, but if you’re uncertain of your skills, take a moment to watch Tony’s video demonstration this week and he’ll walk you through it, too.

Much to my surprise, my Asparagus Bleu Cheese Soup looked and tasted almost exactly like the soup we serve at Sarello’s. Beautifully golden-green in color, the texture was light and velvety smooth. The pungent creaminess of the bleu cheese partnered wonderfully with the bright, delicate, and overall green flavor of the asparagus.

Even from a distance, Tony came to my rescue and helped me satisfy my sister’s craving, and I enhanced my culinary repertoire in the process.